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Bye Bye Basrah
15 October 2020
Iraq
Change of plan
October 1, 2020 by TLO in Iraq
Shat Al Arab Hotel,
Basrah
Iraq
14th Oct 2005
Dear All,
I know it is late on Friday, so either have a good weekend, or I hope you had a good weekend if it is now Monday.
As the one man in charge of moving my entire regiment from Basrah to England, you would have thought I could have got this tied down earlier. Up until about ten minutes ago, I had it tied down pretty well, and was even coming home on Wednesday night and was planning on a “surprise” return a day early.
My Commanding Officer has noticed that being the only person who has “the depth of knowledge” about the most complex move we have undertaken since our arrival it is a little silly to have me leave on the first flight.
I am now flying out of this godforsaken hell hole on the 24th, arriving in England on the 25th. As you can imagine there has been a certain amount of foot-stamping and bottom lip quivering from me, but sadly to no avail.
I made some plans with many of you for next weekend, I was supposed to be going to various parties, lunches, dinners and even moving into my new flat. I am afraid I am no longer going to be able to make any plan I have made until the 25th.
I am furious and quite upset. Believe it or not, I was quite looking forward to getting out of here and seeing you all.
Aside from that and the obvious excitement of rescuing Soldiers from the Police, Riots, and the now increased quantity of attacks onto the hotel, life out here has changed very little. For some extraordinary reason our clocks changed back an hour this weekend, apparently, we are now in winter. Its 45 degrees outside, the coldest it has got so far is at 5 o clock in the morning when the temperature drops to a bone trembling 28 degrees!
See you all eventually.
I promise I might be home for Christmas.
All my love
T
x
Shat Al Arab Hotel from the air

The letter above is part of a series of letters I sent home from Basrah, Iraq in 2005 republished here for the first time since they got sent exactly 15 years ago (I will try and sync them with the real dates sent)

I suppose this was my very first attempt at blogging, before blogging was ever a thing!

I was a Captain in The British Army at the time and was in the middle of an unremarkable 7 month posting to Basrah surrounded by the remarkable men of the Coldstream Guards, my regiment for 7 years. I loved and adored my time in the Coldstream and look back at all the fun and silliness with incredibly fond memories. I hope these letters go some way to show the amusing side of our tour, they are not designed to be a factual representation of the hard work, pain and suffering that so many endured. They do not talk of the ultimate sacrifice made by too many of our soldiers during that extraordinary year.

Nulli Secundus.

The Coldstream Guards Capstar
1 Comments
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TLO

There is 1 comment on this post
  1. Janie
    October 02, 2020, 10:39 am

    And you were home for Christmas!! Wishing it could happen this year!! Xxxx

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I used every ounce of my religious knowledge in explaining to the boys what the Camino de Santiago was as we inadvertently tracked the route to the Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela, I think they got the idea and we enjoyed a bit of culture, for but a moment!

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The Smugglers Way - An awesome off road route from Andorra to Spain that closed my first day crossing the Pyrenees (east to west) with the boys. Not the most challenging 4x4 route, but a perfect off road interlude for our marathon 2,000 km trip home. Today was Northern Spain, Southern France and the whole of Andorra (one road east to west) before we took on the Smugglers Way. We chased eagles with the drone, crossed ‘illegal’ borders, swam in wild rivers, camped and ate wonderful steak all whilst gawping at the epic landscape. Day 2 has a lot to live up to. . . . #smugglersway #crosspyrenees #landrover110 #td5 #dualcab #defender110 #theadventuretruck #landylove #defender #greenlane #landroverclub #td5mafia #defendertd5 #landroverlove #dcpu #adventuretruck #landroverlifestyle #beachrunner #landroverphotos #landroveroflisbon #defender_life_style #venturatruck #travel #adventure
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  • A winter camp to remember - Closing the 2023 camping year with a real bang, an amazing spot in Alentejo played host to a hysterical weekend. Made even funnier with some full on food failures (by me) and some logistical challenges of cold weather camping! Bring on the spring.
.
.
.
#landrover110  #td5 #dualcab #defender110 #theadventuretruck #landylove #defender #greenlane #landroverclub #td5mafia #defendertd5 #landroverlove #dcpu #adventuretruck #landroverlifestyle #beachrunner #landroverphotos
#landroveroflisbon #defender_life_style #venturatruck #travel #adventure #project #alentejo #foodfail
  • As we left the mountains I had assumed epic landscape would fall away, I hadn’t taken into account dreary Northern European weather would take over. We thrashed through northern Spain over the last two days with little to report.

This afternoon we found a wonderful lunch spot for swimming, caving and watching the Lionesses thrash the Mathildas.

I used every ounce of my religious knowledge in explaining to the boys what the Camino de Santiago was as we inadvertently tracked the route to the Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela, I think they got the idea and we enjoyed a bit of culture, for but a moment!

Then on to Portugal for a final camp by the sea, we eyed up a spot that I proceeded to entirely under estimate and got Ventura extremely wonky and stuck. Suffice to say I thought we needed a tractor, but after an hour of solo digging, scraping and tyre deflation the sand gods let us free.

An epic sunset closed our final full day on the road, all things being well we track down the coast to Lisbon tomorrow afternoon!
.
.
.
#crosspyrenees #landrover110 #td5 #dualcab #defender110 #theadventuretruck #landylove #defender #greenlane #landroverclub #td5mafia #defendertd5 #landroverlove #dcpu #adventuretruck #landroverlifestyle #beachrunner #landroverphotos
#landroveroflisbon #defender_life_style #venturatruck #travel #adventure
  • Endless switchbacks, tunnels, mountain passes and epic Mountain View’s was the theme of todays drive. We had the Odessa Valley in our sights for the close of the day, but Ventura pulled like a train and we made it by lunch for a swim.

A casual 7 hours of driving later and we made it to our lakeside camp without seeing a dual carriageway all day and mainly sticking to single tracked roads. 

The Pyrenees wins.
.
.
.
#crosspyrenees #landrover110 #td5 #dualcab #defender110 #theadventuretruck #landylove #defender #greenlane #landroverclub #td5mafia #defendertd5 #landroverlove #dcpu #adventuretruck #landroverlifestyle #beachrunner #landroverphotos
#landroveroflisbon #defender_life_style #venturatruck #travel #adventure
  • The Smugglers Way - An awesome off road route from Andorra to Spain that closed my first day crossing the Pyrenees (east to west) with the boys. 

Not the most challenging 4x4 route, but a perfect off road interlude for our marathon 2,000 km trip home. Today was Northern Spain, Southern France and the whole of Andorra (one road east to west) before we took on the Smugglers Way.

We chased eagles with the drone, crossed ‘illegal’ borders, swam in wild rivers, camped and ate wonderful steak all whilst gawping at the epic landscape. Day 2 has a lot to live up to.
.
.
.
#smugglersway #crosspyrenees #landrover110  #td5 #dualcab #defender110 #theadventuretruck #landylove #defender #greenlane #landroverclub #td5mafia #defendertd5 #landroverlove #dcpu #adventuretruck #landroverlifestyle #beachrunner #landroverphotos
#landroveroflisbon #defender_life_style #venturatruck #travel #adventure
  • Today marks the start of an epic summer road trip around the entire Iberian Peninsula. 3,700 kms. That’s the same as Sydney to Perth, or Lisbon to Gdańsk, or London to Inverness four and a bit times.

We plan to drive from Lisbon, to Faro, to Seville, to Malaga, to Valencia, to Barcelona, to Girona and on into the Pyrenees to explore the mountains and to take on the famous off-road route “The Smugglers Way” an old cigarette trading route between Andorra and Spain. Then from the mountains to Bilbao, to the Babia Y Luna national park and into Northern Portugal to the Douro valley and then to travel south down the Portuguese coast and back home to Lisbon.

Today was the new drone pilot Archie’s first day the helm. This video is all his footage (unless he is in it) stay tuned to watch his drone piloting develop and our adventure unfold.

What could possibly go wrong…
.
.
.
#landrover110  #td5 #dualcab #defender110 #theadventuretruck #landylove #defender #landroverclub #td5mafia #defendertd5 #landroverlove #dcpu #adventuretruck #landroverlifestyle #beachrunner #landroverphotos #landroveroflisbon #defender_life_style #venturatruck #travel #holiday #adventure  #iberianadventure
  • Oh dear. I found a dangerous place @overlandportugaloficial something tells me I might be coming back soon. Awesome shop, lovely people.
.
.
.
#landrover110  #td5 #dualcab #defender110 #theadventuretruck #landylove #defender #greenlane #landroverclub #td5mafia #defendertd5 #landroverlove #dcpu #adventuretruck #landroverlifestyle #beachrunner #landroverphotos #landroveroflisbon #defender_life_style #landrovermena #venturatruck #travel #adventure #classiccar #restoration #project #cooldesk
  • @landrovercarhostoffroad4x4 recently fitted a new canopy from @exmoortrim and some LED’s to Ventura here in Lisbon. Hard to disagree she is now looking extremely good. Juan and his team at Car Host certainly know how to wield a spanner, great job. Ventura is getting ready for a 3,750km trip around the entire Iberian Peninsula this August, watch this space for more excitement and breakdowns this summer.
.
.
.
#landrover110  #td5 #dualcab #defender110 #theadventuretruck #landylove #defender #greenlane #landroverclub #td5mafia #defendertd5 #landroverlove #dcpu #adventuretruck #landroverlifestyle #beachrunner #landroverphotos #landroveroflisbon #defender_life_style #landrovermena #venturatruck #travel #adventure #classiccar #restoration #project #exmoortrim
  • Another mega camping trip under our belts, awesome spot near Tomar - wild, beautiful and totally fabulous. Boys had never swum in fresh water. Can’t wait to go back.
.
.
.
#camping #wild #free #swimming #livefirecooking #bbq #portugal #adventure #fun #explore
  • An incredible weekend off roading in the mountains of Serra de Estrella. I got to take part in the 17th edition of the all terrain tour of Gouveia, hundreds of vehicles touring the mountains trails that weave through the area. Stunning countryside, hilarious company, incredible food and fabulous wine. 
Ventura was the first non Portuguese 4x4 to take part and was the least modified to complete the course, and she still has all straight panels!! Definitely the wildest off road experience I have had with Ventura and I can’t wait for the next one, a truly epic way to see hidden parts of this extraordinary country.
.
.
.
#landrover110  #td5 #dualcab #defender110 #theadventuretruck #landylove #defender #greenlane #landroverclub #td5mafia #defendertd5 #landroverlove #dcpu #adventuretruck #landroverlifestyle #beachrunner #landroverphotos
#landroveroflisbon #defender_life_style #landrovermena #venturatruck #travel #adventure #classiccar #restoration #project #serradeestrela #gouveia #landroverportugal
View on Instagram
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A winter camp to remember - Closing the 2023 camping year with a real bang, an amazing spot in Alentejo played host to a hysterical weekend. Made even funnier with some full on food failures (by me) and some logistical challenges of cold weather camping! Bring on the spring. . . . #landrover110 #td5 #dualcab #defender110 #theadventuretruck #landylove #defender #greenlane #landroverclub #td5mafia #defendertd5 #landroverlove #dcpu #adventuretruck #landroverlifestyle #beachrunner #landroverphotos #landroveroflisbon #defender_life_style #venturatruck #travel #adventure #project #alentejo #foodfail
2 weeks ago
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As we left the mountains I had assumed epic landscape would fall away, I hadn’t taken into account dreary Northern European weather would take over. We thrashed through northern Spain over the last two days with little to report. This afternoon we found a wonderful lunch spot for swimming, caving and watching the Lionesses thrash the Mathildas. I used every ounce of my religious knowledge in explaining to the boys what the Camino de Santiago was as we inadvertently tracked the route to the Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela, I think they got the idea and we enjoyed a bit of culture, for but a moment! Then on to Portugal for a final camp by the sea, we eyed up a spot that I proceeded to entirely under estimate and got Ventura extremely wonky and stuck. Suffice to say I thought we needed a tractor, but after an hour of solo digging, scraping and tyre deflation the sand gods let us free. An epic sunset closed our final full day on the road, all things being well we track down the coast to Lisbon tomorrow afternoon! . . . #crosspyrenees #landrover110 #td5 #dualcab #defender110 #theadventuretruck #landylove #defender #greenlane #landroverclub #td5mafia #defendertd5 #landroverlove #dcpu #adventuretruck #landroverlifestyle #beachrunner #landroverphotos #landroveroflisbon #defender_life_style #venturatruck #travel #adventure
4 months ago
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2/9
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Endless switchbacks, tunnels, mountain passes and epic Mountain View’s was the theme of todays drive. We had the Odessa Valley in our sights for the close of the day, but Ventura pulled like a train and we made it by lunch for a swim. A casual 7 hours of driving later and we made it to our lakeside camp without seeing a dual carriageway all day and mainly sticking to single tracked roads. The Pyrenees wins. . . . #crosspyrenees #landrover110 #td5 #dualcab #defender110 #theadventuretruck #landylove #defender #greenlane #landroverclub #td5mafia #defendertd5 #landroverlove #dcpu #adventuretruck #landroverlifestyle #beachrunner #landroverphotos #landroveroflisbon #defender_life_style #venturatruck #travel #adventure
4 months ago
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3/9
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The Smugglers Way - An awesome off road route from Andorra to Spain that closed my first day crossing the Pyrenees (east to west) with the boys. Not the most challenging 4x4 route, but a perfect off road interlude for our marathon 2,000 km trip home. Today was Northern Spain, Southern France and the whole of Andorra (one road east to west) before we took on the Smugglers Way. We chased eagles with the drone, crossed ‘illegal’ borders, swam in wild rivers, camped and ate wonderful steak all whilst gawping at the epic landscape. Day 2 has a lot to live up to. . . . #smugglersway #crosspyrenees #landrover110 #td5 #dualcab #defender110 #theadventuretruck #landylove #defender #greenlane #landroverclub #td5mafia #defendertd5 #landroverlove #dcpu #adventuretruck #landroverlifestyle #beachrunner #landroverphotos #landroveroflisbon #defender_life_style #venturatruck #travel #adventure
4 months ago
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4/9
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Today marks the start of an epic summer road trip around the entire Iberian Peninsula. 3,700 kms. That’s the same as Sydney to Perth, or Lisbon to Gdańsk, or London to Inverness four and a bit times. We plan to drive from Lisbon, to Faro, to Seville, to Malaga, to Valencia, to Barcelona, to Girona and on into the Pyrenees to explore the mountains and to take on the famous off-road route “The Smugglers Way” an old cigarette trading route between Andorra and Spain. Then from the mountains to Bilbao, to the Babia Y Luna national park and into Northern Portugal to the Douro valley and then to travel south down the Portuguese coast and back home to Lisbon. Today was the new drone pilot Archie’s first day the helm. This video is all his footage (unless he is in it) stay tuned to watch his drone piloting develop and our adventure unfold. What could possibly go wrong… . . . #landrover110 #td5 #dualcab #defender110 #theadventuretruck #landylove #defender #landroverclub #td5mafia #defendertd5 #landroverlove #dcpu #adventuretruck #landroverlifestyle #beachrunner #landroverphotos #landroveroflisbon #defender_life_style #venturatruck #travel #holiday #adventure #iberianadventure
4 months ago
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5/9
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Oh dear. I found a dangerous place @overlandportugaloficial something tells me I might be coming back soon. Awesome shop, lovely people. . . . #landrover110 #td5 #dualcab #defender110 #theadventuretruck #landylove #defender #greenlane #landroverclub #td5mafia #defendertd5 #landroverlove #dcpu #adventuretruck #landroverlifestyle #beachrunner #landroverphotos #landroveroflisbon #defender_life_style #landrovermena #venturatruck #travel #adventure #classiccar #restoration #project #cooldesk
5 months ago
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6/9
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@landrovercarhostoffroad4x4 recently fitted a new canopy from @exmoortrim and some LED’s to Ventura here in Lisbon. Hard to disagree she is now looking extremely good. Juan and his team at Car Host certainly know how to wield a spanner, great job. Ventura is getting ready for a 3,750km trip around the entire Iberian Peninsula this August, watch this space for more excitement and breakdowns this summer. . . . #landrover110 #td5 #dualcab #defender110 #theadventuretruck #landylove #defender #greenlane #landroverclub #td5mafia #defendertd5 #landroverlove #dcpu #adventuretruck #landroverlifestyle #beachrunner #landroverphotos #landroveroflisbon #defender_life_style #landrovermena #venturatruck #travel #adventure #classiccar #restoration #project #exmoortrim
5 months ago
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7/9
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Another mega camping trip under our belts, awesome spot near Tomar - wild, beautiful and totally fabulous. Boys had never swum in fresh water. Can’t wait to go back. . . . #camping #wild #free #swimming #livefirecooking #bbq #portugal #adventure #fun #explore
6 months ago
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8/9
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An incredible weekend off roading in the mountains of Serra de Estrella. I got to take part in the 17th edition of the all terrain tour of Gouveia, hundreds of vehicles touring the mountains trails that weave through the area. Stunning countryside, hilarious company, incredible food and fabulous wine. Ventura was the first non Portuguese 4x4 to take part and was the least modified to complete the course, and she still has all straight panels!! Definitely the wildest off road experience I have had with Ventura and I can’t wait for the next one, a truly epic way to see hidden parts of this extraordinary country. . . . #landrover110 #td5 #dualcab #defender110 #theadventuretruck #landylove #defender #greenlane #landroverclub #td5mafia #defendertd5 #landroverlove #dcpu #adventuretruck #landroverlifestyle #beachrunner #landroverphotos #landroveroflisbon #defender_life_style #landrovermena #venturatruck #travel #adventure #classiccar #restoration #project #serradeestrela #gouveia #landroverportugal
8 months ago
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9/9
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